Sunday, August 12, 2012

Buzz Bee Jaguar Mod Guide

Right after I made the video about the Buzz Bee Jaguar, I decided to make the clip removable. It was easy to do, but having seen the internals I knew I had to do more. This is what I did:

First thing is first, you need to open up your Jaguar. There are 10 screws in total, 2 in the priming slide and 8 in the body, 1 of which is hidden under the slide. All of the screws are the same size. After you remove all the screws, the Jaguar should easily come apart. You should see this:

That plunger tube looks big, but it's deceptive. If the Jaguar used the whole thing, 60-70' ranges would be possible, but because of the way it primes and sits with the clip, you don't actually get that much draw. Here's what it looks like primed:

Look at all that wasted compression. If only the plunger rod was shorter, it could take full advantage of both the spring and the plunger tube. Since I don't have the tools and materials to fabricate my own plunger rod, we'll have to settle for a spacer instead. 1/2" PVC is too big for plunger tube, but the spring slips over 1/2" CPVC. 

To make sure that doesn't happen, I took about an inch of CPVC, put a screw about 1/4" of an inch from the edge, and wrapped back end in electrical tape. This got me close to full compression, maybe 1/8" of an inch off. My plunger rod now looks like this:

If you look, you can see the screw at the top:

At this point, I drilled through the front of the plunger tube opening with a 11/64" bit. It isn't much, but it does improve airflow just a bit. 

After your done with your spacer and plunger tube, the Jaguar can go back together. The clip mods can be done outside of the blaster. 

To make the clip removable, sand off the nub on the bottom right side of the clip. You could do this without opening the blaster, if you wished. Just make sure to not crack the barrel.

To remove the ARs from the clip, I first drilled through the back of the clip with a 9/64" bit and worked my way up to an 11/64" bit. After you drill through the pegs, drill through the front with a 3/16" bit, but don't worry about trying to drill through the leftover peg; instead, drill around it. The spinning bit should snap the weakened peg off at the base. Afterwards, you can continue and drill through hole with your 3/16" if you wish.

After you're done removing the ARs, you can go about covering the holes. Use one strip of electrical tape to cover all the holes, then use another strip to wrap around the clip twice. Make sure you clear the front rail on the other side. The second strip of electrical tape helps to secure the first and makes sure that the blaster doesn't eject the clip at the 6th barrel. When you're done, you should have this:

I've seen a 5-10' increase in range, depending on the darts. Especially well fitting darts go 40-45'. If you wanted to break 50' consistently, some rebarreling of the clip would be required.


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