Saturday, April 21, 2012

Tech Group Pistol Splat Mod Guide

I have had several requests over the past several months for a mod guide on how I mod my Pistol Splats and after finding one in a thrift store a couple weeks ago, I've finally decided that it was time to do it.

Before you start, you will need these materials:

Everbilt Spring Pack 685 436 (Home Depot)
x1 1" OD x 7/16" ID Rubber Washer
x2 3/4" OD x 1/8" ID Metal Washers
x1 #8 Metal Finishing Washer
x1 #6 Bolt (at least 3/4" long)
x1 #6 Nut

As well as these tools:

Phillips Head Screwdriver
Flat Head Screwdriver
Cutting Bit
Drill Bit
Conical Sanding Bit

Start by removing the 9 screws in the blaster. Every single one is the same silver screw, so don't worry about mixing them up. You will also need to cut through the front orange piece and the sight, or for the paintball version, the front piece and hopper holder. These could probably also be boiled off, but I minimize my Splats anyway.

After you open it up, you will find these internals:

Remove everything. You may keep the priming handle and the catch in the blaster if you wish, but you will need to pull the priming handle out slightly to expose the metal bar. (Shown partly above the blaster)

At this point, I minimize the shell. Cut on the black line, as well as the bottom screw post and the clip attachment. 



Take your plunger tube and rod and separate them. Do whatever you want with the buffer spring inside. Take your plunger tube and, using a conical bit, widen the hole until it can snugly fit a length of CPVC. You can remove the rest of plastic by sanding it with the top of a cutting bit.



Cut a length of CPVC and insert it into your coupler. The CPVC should protrude from the coupler, but only slightly. Adhere it to your plunger tube using your adhesive of choice; I used 2-part epoxy for plastic. After it sets, ring the bottom with goop for a perfect seal. Make sure to let the goop sit for at least 8 hours before assembling your Splat, and 24 before any heavy use.

Coupler and CPVC stub

Finished Plunger tube.

Next take your plunger rod and remove the plunger head; it should come right off. Cut the nub where it used to be and drill a small hole through the center. I used the drill bit that came with my dremel, but you could use whatever works for you. Just make sure that the hole is smaller than your #6 bolt; we want a tight fit.

It's time to make your new plunger head. Take your bolt and slide the following parts on in order: 3/4" metal washer, 1" rubber washer, #8 metal washer, 3/4" metal washer. Screw the bolt through the hole and tighten a #6 nut on the other side.

This part is optional, but will add power to your blaster. Go to your Home Depot and pick up the Everbilt spring pack 685 436. It has 3 different kinds of compression springs in it. Using your internals, figure out how long you need to cut the largest spring; mine was about 1/2". This spring both acts as a buffer for the main spring and adds power. Make sure you insert it behind the plunger head first.

The last thing to do before putting the blaster together is to dremel out the hole in the front until it's big enough for the coupler to fit through.

Now everything is ready to go back together. Make sure you grease your new plunger head well. Your internals should look something like this:

After all the internals are back in the shell, your Splat is ready to be screwed back together. 

As a stock blaster, this Wipeout Splat shot about 50' with Nerf whistler darts. After the modifications, it shoots SE Slug darts 70'. It can also now use a speedloader, which increases it's RoF.

For those of you who are interested, here is the guide in video form:

Part 1

Part 2

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